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While driving (with elevation changes), I expect idle AFR to differ from tune-up setting, usually no more than ☐.2 off of the 12.5 setting. If adjustments change radically at next tune-up and all else is in serviceable condition, other diagnostics need to be performed. Depending on how much carbs are out of adjustment, this process may take a half-hour or so close to sync, maybe five minutes, if that (normal tune-up process). I reconnect the linkage, rev the motor, making sure idle returns to set RPM and AFR reads 12.5. I do several passes at all idle mixture screws until AFR reads a solid 12.5, then readjust idle setting (checking side-to-side balance). After everything is set, I further adjust each idle mixture screw using the AFR meter: when idle mixture screws are close, the AFR reading will change markedly by small twists of the screw. If the carbs are way out of whack, I return to the side-to-side/idle adjustment until the RPM is back in idle range. If all screws cause RPM drops, that's a good sign (no vacuum leaks). Screw idle mixture screws in until RPM start to drop, then back out 1/4 turn. After adjusting side-to-side for balance and idle speed, I start by adjusting the idle mixture screws using RPM (meter attached to coil - set to 0-1200 RPM). Most of us struggle to a certain amount with our solexes, there must be a better way to handle this!Ĭlick to expand.AFR meter employed (permanent in-car mounting): I start with a warm engine and remove carb linkage from carb arms. I'll keep on exploring the subject, and share here my findings/impressions. I hate it when I have over 2 subjective parameters to fine tune a complex system. What I am really looking for, in fact, is to better understand the behaviour of those carbs, and have as much objective data as possible. But visibly there are no "optimal" values to look for, and most important, I know that as long as I stay above 2 / 2.5 I am not running lean - my biggest fear since it can melt piston heads. Until now I did it "by ear" but never, ever got a really nice idle, in 10 years of ownership.Ĭlearly, lowering the readings from 5.5 to 3.5 reduced engine vibrations and got the engine revving smoother, but I didn't have time to make a test drive. But idle isn't smooth at all, and idle mixture is an essential point to address that. And carbs have just been completely cleaned, sync'd and balanced. And I did go for a good ride, and left my engine running for 15 minutes on idle before measuring. Halfords sell it for 100.Of course Im doing this outside, as CO is lethal.
#Gunsons gastester professional manual professional#
Anyone know if this sounds right? Its a green gunson professional gas test analyser. Still dont understand why when we set it to 2.0 in fresh air, then it goes to -2.0 in the pipe. We stuck the probe back in the pipe and it went to -2.0! Does this sound normal!Īnyway, we gonna run the car and see if it runs better and gives better mpg. we then set the co screw to give the fastest idle, then dropped the idle screw back to 800, while the exhaust gas analyser settled at 2.0.
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when we turned it back on, the co settled at +2.0 in the open air.
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So we went to adjust it, but i dropped the screwdriver in the engine and had to turn it off. so we stuck the probe in the exhaust and it went to +1.65! Strange. Set the idle to 800, waited for the co to settle, which it did to -2.00!. We warmed the car, pulled the crankcase to airbox hose off, plugged the analyser onto the batery and negative coil terminal. We are a bit confused about how this thing works when setting the co on a 1.05 polo with the pierburg 1b carb.
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